The
hike and bike trail emerges from beneath the Franklin Avenue bridge on
the north side of Buffalo Bayou. As the trail winds along the bank, the
landscaped slope forms a small park which is accessible when the water
level of the Bayou is within its normal range. Ahead, we see the trail
go under the Milam Street bridge. This bridge is fairly modern. It was
built in 1947, but this crossing of Buffalo Bayou dates to the time
before the founding of the City of Houston.
As Stephen F. Austin
worked to establish his colony in Texas in the 1820's, he encouraged
the immigration of men of economic means such as Jared Groce. Groce
transplanted his plantation from Alabama to the Brazos Valley near
modern day Hempstead, and within a few years, Groce was producing
quantities of cotton that could be exported from Texas. In the
mid-1820's, Groce transported 100 bales of cotton to the junction of
White Oak and Buffalo Bayou. Near what is now the Milam Street bridge,
Groce and his crew forded the bayou. His wagons bumped along a trail
hacked through underbrush and giant trees across the future site of
Houston to Harrisburg where he loaded the cotton on John R. Harris's
steam-powered barges for the trip to Galveston.
The importance
of this "road" was not lost on the Allen brothers. In 1837, the town of
Houston contracted with David Harrison to build a bridge across the
bayou at this point. Augustus C. Allen donated the timbers and heavy
planks for the bridge which was 300 feet long and was constructed at a
cost of $1,500. The low wooden bridge at the foot of Milam Street was
completed in October, 1838, and it was Houston's the first bridge over
Buffalo Bayou. A bridge over the other important crossing of Buffalo
Bayou at Preston Avenue was completed shortly afterwards in November,
1838.
The young town of Houston had to learn about the hydrology
of Buffalo Bayou from the very beginning. A few months after its
construction, the Milam Street bridge was damaged by a flood in
February, 1839, and it had to be repaired by David Harrison. In the
1840's, a second bridge made of wood and concrete was built at the foot
of Milam Street to accommodate the increase in commercial traffic into
the city. That bridge was destroyed by the floods of October and
November, 1843. Finally, about 1850, the bridge was replaced with a
"little iron bridge" that served for a long time thereafter.

At the end of the
Civil War, an incident took place at the Milam Street bridge that would
have repercussions for the city for the next 140 (or more) years. The
story begins with John Kennedy, an Irish immigrant who came to Houston
in 1842 and opened a bakery. The young Kennedy was quite industrious
and soon expanded his business enterprises and land holdings in
Houston. In the late 1840's, he took over the trading post operations
after the Torrey brothers abandoned their Houston business and he
opened the Kennedy Trading Post in the narrow two-story brick building
at 813 Congress Avenue across from Market Square. Kennedy was an early
parishioner of St. Vincent de Paul Church, Houston's first Catholic
church, and he and his wife Matilda contributed to the building fund
for the church building and donated lots for the cemetery.
By
1860, John Kennedy had erected a flour mill at Congress Avenue and the
Dry Gully, the large drainage that ran down what would be Caroline
Street, that produced twenty-four barrels of flour a day. He also
built the Kennedy Building, a three story structure located at 220
Travis Street and Congress Avenue. It was this building that Kennedy
leased to the Confederacy in 1862 for use by the ordnance department as
an arsenal.
After the surrender of the Confederacy in 1865,
soldiers who were returning to their homes in Texas raided the Kennedy
building, taking items that they might need to re-establish themselves
on their farms in the countryside. The government stores in Houston
were appropriated by soldiers and families of soldiers while ordinance
stores "were either carried off or destroyed, and guns, shot and shells
were thrown into Buffalo Bayou." After his place had been looted,
Kennedy disposed of the remaining ordinance by taking it to the Iron
Bridge at Milam Street and dumping the munitions and into bayou.
The
disposal of the ordinance from the arsenal was part of a broader effort
to deprive the approaching Union forces of the equipment and supplies
of the Confederacy. During the war, blockade runners and ammunition
barges had operated between Houston and Galveston. Ordnance and
supplies came to Houston by the shipload, and in June, 1865, there were
three of these vessels at the dock in Houston. These barges, "loaded
with rifles and cannon balls were driven up stream as far as possible
and sunk." The low water bridge at Milam Street was as far upstream as
the barges could be moved, and there they were scuttled.
Although
significant amounts of material and munitions had been disposed of in
the bayou, no organized effort was made to remove the ordnance from the
bayou. Houston seemed content to let the bombs and guns lie in the mud
of the stream bottom. Nevertheless, the citizens were reminded of this
episode periodically, especially during periods when the tide was very
low.
On Sunday morning, February 10, 1867, Henry Donnellan and
A. C. Richer, partners in the tin business returned to their home on
the north side of Buffalo Bayou via the Milam Street bridge for dinner.
While waiting for dinner, the two men were examining a shell that had
been exposed in the shallows of the bayou. The shell exploded and both
men were fatally wounded. The tragic event stunned the whole town and
it remained in the local memory for years thereafter, such as on
Wednesday, November 21, 1877, when the police found an old bombshell
under the Iron Bridge at Milam Street that was "similar to the one that
killed Henry Donnellan."
For the next thirty years, the disposed
munitions attracted little interest. However, in late January, 1906, a
low tide exposed the remains of the Civil War disposal effort. One of
the old barges, although mired in the mud, had been visible above the
surface for many years. Now, the shallows of the bayou were exposed and
the City authorized the Houston Yacht and Power Boat Club to clear the
bayou above Main Street in order to construct a "harbor for pleasure
craft and launches." On January 30, 1906, "a blast was placed under the
ancient wreck of an old ammunition boat" and the explosion attracted a
large crowd to the scene. A hundred or more men and boys gathered along
the banks of Buffalo Bayou below the Milam Street bridge and began
digging and scrapping the bottom of the bayou with sticks and other
implements looking for cannonballs, bombshells and other dangerous
Civil War relics.
In the forty years since the munitions were
disposed of, this was the largest number of relics recovered from the
site. Many of the bombshells were still quite dangerous. The gunpowder
was found to be dry and very explosive, even after having been
submerged for so long. The memory of those who had died in the past
while handling these relics of the war was carefully noted as a
precaution to those who were collecting the souvenirs. The items
recovered included Civil War era rifles and cartridges that were
shipped to Texas from France, cannonballs, and some money and a
diamond ring. Mayor Baldwin Rice and two City Commissioners inspected
the excavation and were pleased that the "three old hulks have been
removed" from the waterway.
The iron bridge at Milam Street was
replaced with a concrete bridge by 1924, and no more was heard about
the buried Civil War artifacts and cannonballs in the mud of Buffalo
Bayou. That is, until 1947, when a new concrete bridge was built to
replace the earlier one. During the construction of this bridge, which
was designed by J. G. McKenzie and built by the C. E. Lytle Company,
351 cannonballs were uncovered and taken to Fort Sam Houston for
disposal.
This information caught the attention of real estate
developer, history buff and treasure hunter Carroll A. Lewis, Jr. In
February, 1968, Lewis and the Southwestern Historical Exploration
Society, a group of like minded persons who shared Lewis's interest in
history and quest for hidden treasure, probed the area below the Milam
Street bridge. The soundings that they took indicated that objects
seemed to be buried in about 5 feet of mud, close to the bridge.
In
the early summer of 1968, Lewis organized an excavation of Buffalo
Bayou near the Milam Street bridge in hopes of locating and recovering
artifacts from the sunken ships or barges. His efforts to find these
Civil War relics relied on the eye witness accounts of three Houston
residents who participated in the 1906 excavations at Milam Street.
Each of them had vivid memories of the event that took place over sixty
years earlier, even though each was only a young boy at the time.
John
Gresham claimed that he and his grandfather, John S. Taylor, boarded
the sunken boat at Milam Street during the low tide which was
accentuated by a north wind that had blown the bayou water out and
exposed the ruins. Gresham and his grandfather boarded the old
Confederate ship which his grandfather recognized as the Confederate
blockade runner Augusta. Taylor had served as the cannoneer of the ship
while a member of Hood's Texas Brigade. The schooner Augusta had made a
trip to New Orleans, Mobile and back. While docked near the Milam
Street bridge, the 65 feet long and 20 feet wide schooner was sunk
about thirty feet downstream from the bridge with its bow pointed out
toward the middle of the bayou. Gresham recalled that the forward cabin
of the ship was extant and the muzzle of an iron cannon was sticking
out. The deck of the boat was gone, but the ribs were still visible.
Among the ruins, they picked up about forty cannonballs which later
were taken to Fort Sam Houston and exploded by the Army.
W. L.
Cleveland remembered the old boat that could be seen in the middle of
the bayou near the Milam Street bridge when the water was low. He
recalled the time that it was blown up after some divers had recovered
several boxes of rifles from the boat.
Felix Joe Richard was
there when a north wind caused a low tide in Buffalo Bayou and a boat
was exposed. The boat was about 60 feet long and 25 feet wide. There
was another boat across the bayou, but it appeared to be buried more
deeply in the mud. Richard went onto the boat and found boxes of
shells, boxes that could have had rifles in them, cannon balls and a
cannon that was bolted down to the main deck.
On July 20, 1968
at 8:00 am, the Southwestern Historical Exploration Society set a
thirty ton drag line on the Milam Street bridge to dig the bayou mud.
Believing that the sunken boat was near the middle or closer to the
south bank, they dredged that area first. Six and a half hours later,
at 2:30 pm, a 3" Parrott type cannonball was found at a site ten feet
from the bridge in center of bayou. Subsequent digging recovered an
impressive array of ordnance and military equipment, including three
Parrott cannon projectiles of CSA manufacture, two 3" Blakely cannon
projectiles of British manufacture, a 12 lb Borman fused cannon ball, a
Williams wiper Minie ball and a 10" Brass Naval ordnance cannon fuse
dated 1861. Other military items included three Blakely brass nipple
fuses, pistol balls of 28, 31, 36 and 44 caliber, rifle balls of 50,
58, 69 caliber, an Enfield bayonet, a musket wrench, grape shot, and an
octagonal, 36 caliber rifle barrel with its front sight attached.
Additional items included a belaying pin, square nails, spikes, chest
locks and keys and other items that would have been the typical cargo
of a Confederate supply ship.
Carroll Lewis, who supervised the
Southwestern Historical Exploration Society recovery of the Civil War
relics, said that his organization would not do any additional
excavations, but he felt that many more artifacts were left in the
bayou to be recovered. This recovery operation was financed by the
Houston Antique Gun Collectors Association for display at their annual
meeting on August 4, 1968 and they had satisfied that commitment. He
did say, however, that the artifacts would be on display at the Houston
Museum of Natural Science.
It is not known whether the display
at the Museum of Natural Science ever took place. The recovered
artifacts were most likely retained in the personal collections of the
treasure hunters.
During March of 2010, a combination of a
strong low tide and a gusty north wind created low water conditions in
Buffalo Bayou that were similar to those of 1906. This time, however,
even though the old pilings and bulkhead of the bayou were exposed and
the muddy bottom of the bayou visible to a large extent, no Civil War
artifacts were seen lying on the stream bed. If they are there, they
are mired deeply in the sediments of the bayou.